Perfect Those Flying Geese; Gosling Wall Hanging - Free Quilting Project
I can’t believe that, of all the quilts I’ve made, I’ve never actually made flying geese! It was such a big gap in my quilting knowledge and when designing this free project I decided to finally tackle this piecing technique.
So, we are learning together which is great. The Gosling Wall Hanging is a perfectly small project which allows you to try out flying geese without committing to a large mountain of a quilt.
This blog post is a supplement to the pattern, showing behind the scenes sewing as well as tricks and tips that I hope will help! If you get stuck, don’t forget you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
Then, following the instructions in the pattern I cut the shapes required from each of the fat quarters. To use the rectangles as an example, I cut a 4.5” wide strip from the width of the fabric and then cut it every 2.5” to get the rectangles. You’ll fit 8 shapes out of every width.
As specified in the pattern, the cutting of the cream (or whatever colour you’re using for the background) is very very tight. I explain how to cut it in the pattern but see below for a visual.
The next step is to create the sub blocks, this is where we start to make the flying geese. How to make flying geese is detailed in the pattern but I took some photos as I went, so you might find these helpful. Don’t forget to press the seams!
A flying geese block is made from two squares and one rectangle. The squares are the same size as the short edge of the rectangle. Place a square on the left of the rectangles, right sides together and line up the corners. You want to sew a diagonal line from the bottom left corner to the top right corner, I found drawing a line with a fabric pen and ruler to be helpful. Some guides I read said to pin the fabrics together, but I found this distorted the fabric as the pieces are quite small. Once you’ve sewn this diagonal line, take your quilting ruler and line it up so that it over hangs the sewing line by a 1/4” and then trim it. Open up the square (now a triangle) and press. Then do the same on the right hand side - place a square and sew from bottom right to top left. When you open it you will notice that the last line you sewed overlaps the first one. This is fine, once you join this block to another, this will go into the seam allowance and the point of your main triangle will be perfect.
So, there’s lots of ways of basting quilts...which I will do a more detailed post in the future, but for this small piece I used 606 which is a spray iron on adhesive and a few safety pins to hold the layers together.
To quilt the quilt, I used white thread and a long stitch length and stitched around the triangles. As you can see, my quilting needs more work - something I will explore in a future tutorial! My best recommendation is to test your thread tension before you start quilting not half way through the project like I did!!! I would also say, quilt from the middle out, that way if your fabric shifts you shouldn’t get creases in the middle.
My personal preference for binding is to use the darkest colour already present on the quilt, that way it frames the top nicely.